Recently, a friend told me that he had ‘finally’ managed to save Rs 1 crore (not including his real estate investments). And he was quite happy about this achievement as the first crore is a big milestone no doubt when it comes to us Indians.
In the course of our conversation, he casually asked a simple question –
Can I Retire with Rs 1 Crore in India today?
To me, it seemed that the bug of early retirement had bitten him too as he is just 33 – though the disease seemed in its infancy. 😉
But given my prior knowledge of his not-so-frugal lifestyle (despite good income), I knew that it won’t be possible. And I told him so. His reaction was that of a person who had been slapped hard. 😉
But this got me thinking…
What if someone had a comparatively more frugal lifestyle than my friend or was much older and nearing retirement (around 60), then would Rs 1 crore be enough to retire in India today?
Ofcourse it would depend on various factors. But what do you think?
Suppose you too had Rs 1 Crore today. Can you retire comfortably depending on where you are in life?
I can already hear the ‘No’ssss…
So let me disappoint you all a bit.
For most readers of Stable Investor, a corpus of Rs 1 crore will not be enough to retire.
Sorry. That’s the reality.
But let’s anyway see why Rs 1 crore may not be enough for most people’s retirement now. And if you too are thinking why I have chosen the figure of Rs 1 crore, then its more about the psychological attachment we Indians have with such large figures (more so with the word ‘Crore’) when it comes to saving for long term goals like retirement.
Retirement Corpus Returns – 8% – portfolio mainly has debt (giving 6-8%) and some equity (giving 10-12%)
Average Inflation – 6%
Life Expectancy – 85 years
In this scenario, the money runs out by 79th year. Here is how:
So you see that Rs 1 crore is insufficient to provide for all expenses in 25 years of retirement (from age 60 to 85) in the given scenario.
Your options? Either reduce the expenses or don’t live long enough. Only the former is under your control as the latter (forcing yourself to not live long enough) is suicide and punishable under Indian laws.
But jokes apart, there are few important things to think about this above scenario:
First, in spite of regular expense being Rs 40,000 monthly or Rs 4.8 lac annually, an additional buffer of Rs 1.2 lac has been kept. You may feel that why am I overestimating the expenses, maybe unnecessarily? But this kind of overestimation or let’s say, having such buffers in retirement calculations is advisable. And that is because the retirement portfolio is open to some big risks:
Sequence of Returns Risk – In the calculations, it is assumed that corpus will generate 8% average returns each and every year. But in reality, when the corpus is deployed in a mix of equity and debt, some years you might get higher returns from equity while in other years, you might see lower (or even negative) returns. Even debt returns move around a bit. So the overall portfolio returns will fluctuate accordingly. And if the initial sequence of returns in first few years is bad (or less than our assumption of 8%), then the corpus will get depleted much faster due to withdrawals for regular expenses and much lower returns replenishing the corpus (or losses depleting the corpus).
Higher inflation Risk – We have assumed a reasonable (but more than the currently prevalent) 6% inflation in retirement years. But it is possible that the actual inflation in atleast few years may be unexpectedly higher. Who knows? This will naturally result in faster depletion of the retirement corpus if the retiree cannot reduce his expenses appropriately.
Longevity Risk – We have assumed that life expectancy (from corpus dependence perspective) is 85. It’s entirely possible that you or spouse or luckily both (!) live much longer. If that’s the case, then you don’t want to run out of money at that age. Isn’t it?
Unexpected and Uninsured Big Medical Expense – Its possible that an unexpectedly large medical expense (which is not fully covered by health insurance) might force you to dip into the retirement corpus (assuming no help from family/friends etc.). If that happens, then that too can compromise the corpus’s potential to last for full 25+ years.
Adverse Future Taxation – You never know when the tax regime may change for the worse. They might unexpectedly introduce some new taxes or clauses which will result in lower in-hand post-retirement income or need to withdraw more from the corpus as the in-hand after-tax figures will be less.
So it is for these reasons (potential risks) that you need to have some buffers while calculating the retirement scenarios.
Another aspect is, and you will agree with me here, that “8% return every year” is a hypothetical scenario.
A more realistic scenario would be the retiree parking the corpus of Rs 1 crore in a conservative portfolio with 25% equity and 75% debt. With equity returns fluctuating every year between very high (let’s say +49%) to very low (let’s say -27%) and debt returns ranging from 6% to 9%.
I have simulated a return sequence of 25-26 years which eventually delivers 8% CAGR (our original return assumption used earlier). Have a look below:
Spend some time on the table above. A portfolio of 25% equity and 75% debt sees fluctuating returns every year. So the actual portfolio return every year varies but the 25+ year CAGR works out to be just what we wanted – a neat 8%.
And this is the problem with the concept of CAGR – an average CAGR of 8% does not mean 8% every year. I have written about this phenomenon in detail here and here. A lot of people fail to understand it and make mistakes in their expectations. And that can be disastrous.
Let’s now use the above sequence of realistic fluctuating returns on the Rs 1 Crore retirement portfolio from which, withdrawals for retirement expenses are taking place.
Let’s see how long it survives now:
Coincidently, this also survives till the age of 79-80.
You might ask – nothing has changed from the earlier example. But remember that this is just one of the possible sequence of returns. There can be millions of other sequence of year-wise returns.
As I mentioned in the risks of getting a string (sequence) of poor returns in the initial years, it can suddenly destroy the retirement corpus and lead to a retirement failure. More so if the equity allocation is unnecessarily high to begin with.
Equity Returns in the first 4 years: (-)12% returns each in first 4 years
Equity Returns in later years: same as used in the above example
Debt Returns: same as in the above example
Expenses: same as in the above example
Have a look at the simulation below. The corpus struggles due to a bad sequence of returns in the first 4 years (and high allocation to that struggling asset, i.e. equity) and gets exhausted in just the 72-73rd year itself:
This is exactly what the Sequence of Return Risk is.
A poor sequence of returns in initial years can deplete the corpus very fast if exposure to the asset giving poor returns is high.
And you never know what would be the sequence of returns in the initial years of your retirement. It may be good. It may be bad. You cannot choose the sequence. So that risk is always there. There are ways to manage this risk to some extent.
So now you see the difficulty in answering optimistically to questions like Will Rs 1 crore last full life? Or, How long your Rs 1 crore will last?
If you too were looking for the perfect answer to Can I Retire With Rs 1 Crore in India today? then it really depends on a ton of factors. There are no simple thumb rules here.
Retirement planning isn’t exactly rocket science. But its fairly tricky and a little difficult.
And not because it involves number crunching, but because of the uncertainties associated with all the factors that impact it. It is really not just about punching numbers in an online retirement planner or excel retirement calculator that many people feel it is. It has been rightly called as the Nastiest Problem in Finance. Do read the linked article and you too will be stressed about the idea of retirement calculations themselves! My apologies for painting a bleak picture but I try to share realities on Stable Investor.
And please if you do get hold of any sample Rs 1 crore retirement plan, then remember that it is not necessary that it will be applicable in your case too. Copy-pasting doesn’t work in personal finance.
For all middle class and young people, even though Rs 1 crore sounds like a large number, it won’t be enough because of not-so-low inflation and lack of social security in India. It might still work in certain cases where there are other sources of income post-retirement (like rental, your or/and spouse’s pension, etc.). But if the dependency is only on the retirement corpus, then it can be safely said that:
Don’t retire with Rs 1 crore in India!
Make sure you give retirement planning (or early retirement planning) the serious thought it deserves.
Ideally, the very first step should be to separate the goal of retirement planning from all other short/medium-term goals like a house purchase, children’s higher education and marriage, travelling, etc. Keeping the goal of retirement separate from other goal ensures that you can give it the undivided attention it deserves and more importantly, you don’t end up dipping into the retirement savings like many people do without realizing its consequences.
Is Rs 1 crore good enough for your retirement is not the right question. You should rather ask How much money is enough to retire in India?
Ideally, a methodical and mathematical approach should be followed for planning your retirement savings. If you can do it correctly (and you should first know what can go wrong and where – do not miss reading this to understand), then it is fine. Else, better to take good advice from an advisor for proper retirement planning. Or you can even consider full financial planning that among other things, will also take care of your retirement goal.
Whatever path you chose to put in place your retirement plan, make sure you do not delay it, don’t get your assumptions wrong and more importantly, begin soon.
Note – This is a guest post by Ajay. He has previously written on this topic here. Since a few years had passed, he was kind enough to share his views again (with a useful real-life example). Ajay has also authored other interest posts here like How He created a corpus of Rs 3.7 Crore in just 10 years. So over to Ajay for this post…
Are mutual funds better than real estate for investing in India?
Can investing in real estate be better than investing in equity funds?
Mutual Funds Vs Real Estate – which is better
And similar versions asking the same things…
So let me try and address this again…
I once again reiterate that there will be many reasons for investing (or let’s say putting money) in real estate – such as peer pressure, family pressure, social status etc. and I am not debating the same. This question of whether you should invest in Real Estate (for investment) or Mutual Funds, can only be answered by you and you alone.
And therefore, this article should ideally be read in that spirit.
The intention of this post is to present facts based on the actual data, from both real estate and mutual funds from an investor’s perspective and ofcourse, my opinion on the same. 🙂
Also, as stated in the earlier post:
A home is a place to live and it should not be linked to one’s investment strategy. There should not be any second thought about buying your 1st property for self-occupancy whether with or without tax benefits.
I am aware and acknowledge the fact that being Equity and Equity Funds oriented investor, my views will tend to be biased towards Equity investments than Real Estate investments.
The experience and the actual investment returns of Real Estate investors vary from location to location. And therefore, many of you may not agree with the conclusion or findings of this post. Nevertheless, through this article, I have analyzed the actual data from the Real estate and mutual fund investments in India.
So let’s go ahead…
Real Estate Investment
In August-2010, a friend of mine decided to buy a 1200 Square feet (Sq.ft). Flat in the outskirts of Bangalore (@ Rs 2290 per Sq.ft.) through a housing loan. The details are as follows:
Cost of Flat (including Car parking, Utilities, Legal costs, Deposits etc.): Rs 31,39,500
VAT, Registration & Stamp paper: Rs 3,02,566
Total Cost of Flat (all Inclusive): Rs 34,42,066
To fund this purchase, he used:
His own money (Rs 12,42,066) and
Took a home loan for Rs 22,00,000 from a bank.
The loan EMI was Rs.21,343.
As like many of you committed individuals, he paid all the loan EMI on or before the due dates, and also increased the EMI amounts as his salary increased during the loan tenure. He also made part payments many times to accelerate the loan closure and to settle the loan as early as possible. He also put this house on monthly rental as he had to live in another city for professional reasons.
Now let’s look at the numbers below (if you are interested in the actual loan cashflow data):
Now the loan ended recently (in May-2019).
So I sat with my friend and re-calculated the actual cost of his flat:
Total Cost (Flat in Hand) – Rs 34.4 lac
Downpayment – Rs 12.42 lac
Loan – Rs 22.00 lac
Total EMI Paid – Rs 25.73 lac
Total Initial Downpayment & Prepayments – Rs 18.67 lac
Actual Cost of Flat (excl. rent)- Rs 44.40 lac
Rent Received – Rs 11.36 lac
Net Amount Paid for Flat – Rs 33.04 lac
These are real numbers. Real actual numbers.
Let’s move further.
With the loan completed in almost 9 years time, and with the general assumption of property appreciation, we expected the property to fetch at least double the investment (value) of net amount paid for the flat.
So we expected Rs 66 lac from the sale of the property.
However, we did not find a single buyer even at Rs 55 lac!!
From the local brokers and available market information, we got to know that the property could be sold immediately for Rs 40 to 42 lac and if we were lucky, it can be sold for a stretched value of Rs 45-48 lac (let’s say max Rs 50 lac). Also, there will be capital gains tax on the profit amount.
While it is concerning that there was no value appreciation despite the area is connected and having all the basic amenities in the near vicinity, I decided to take this as a case study to see an alternative scenario – where investments had been made in Mutual Funds. I wanted to know what would have been the outcome.
Mutual Fund Investment
I chose 3 funds to feed the investment data in MF (same amount invested as EMI, downpayment and prepayment on the same date as the loan payments were made).
The choice of funds were as follows:
1 decent performing fund (Franklin India Equity),
1 market performer (UTI Nifty 50 Index Fund), and
1 worst performing fund (LIC Multi-Cap Fund)
Since the direct plans weren’t available in 2010, regular plan (i.e. ones with higher fee and lower returns) were chosen for data crunching. So here are the details below (or you can skip and go straight to the summary just after the table):
Summary of the above investment table is as follows:
From the table above, it is clearly evident that if instead of buying the flat, the investment was rather made in the worst performing mutual fund, it would still have given returns of Rs 55.5 lac against Rs 40-48 lac current market value of the flat.
Investment in the index fund would have fetched a much better Rs 67.94 lac. And if you luckily had invested in a very good fund, then it would have given you about Rs 78+ lac.
Not bad. Right?
I know what many of you might be thinking…
While we can debate the time of entry in mutual funds, time of entry or locality or high cost paid for the property etc., I still find merit in investing in Mutual Funds instead of Real Estate flats as an investment. And I very well know that irrespective of the above data favouring MFs, many will still argue in favour of the real estate. I leave the decision to you.
An important point that shouldn’t be missed in this Mutual fund vs real estate debate is the importance of selecting a good fund (or avoiding bad ones) for investment. And if we stretch this topic a little, it opens up another separate debate on the Active versus Passive Funds which I guess is best left for another post.
Note: In the calculation of Real Estate, the cost for Home Insurance, Home Maintenance, etc. was not included. Also, the Rs 2 Lac tax savings during this tenure was not considered as there will be a capital gain tax on property investment too. Equity investment until March-2018 were are tax-free and therefore, the tax implication would be negligible in case of equity investment in the above case study’s tenure.
As stated in the previous post on the debate of real estate vs mutual funds, I once again have the same concluding thoughts.
And this is a repetition of the earlier statement. One should not give any second thought about buying the 1st house/property for self-occupancy, whether it is with or without tax benefits.
However, based on the comparative analysis done above, one should think twice (or even ten times…) before buying a home for investment purpose. One should carefully weigh all the available data (Or as much reliable information you have) and then take a wise call.
Just because your friend or family members are investing in real estate does not mean that you should also do it.
Diversification aspect should also be looked at. But you should not avoid evaluating your own financial goals. This is extremely critical. And don’t just evaluate and feel helpless about it. Find out how you can plan to achieve them and then decide whether you actually need (or want) to ‘invest’ in real estate or not. Different people will get different answers.
Without doubt, a physical asset (like a house) will always give huge mental comfort and satisfaction over other financial assets like mutual funds. But it is also true that it may not always be the best available investment option. In fact, investing in house funded through a loan, is a huge long-term liability – which in many cases, chokes the person’s ability to save and invest for other goals in right instruments.
In my opinion (and it is mine so you can choose to ignore it), after the purchase of the 1st property for self-use, if there is any surplus cash left to invest, you should invest it as per your asset allocation (which includes debt, equity, gold & real estate). If the asset allocation permits you to invest in real estate, you may very well do it. But if it doesn’t, then you should refrain from investing in it just because it’s what everyone else around you is doing.
As stated at the beginning of this article too, this is one hell of a controversial debate.
And there is no one straight-forward or logical answer to it. There are no thumb rules either. You and you alone can answer the question of Real Estate Vs Mutual Funds.
In this article (and in the earlier one), all I have tried is to attempt to clear the myth that “Real estate investing is the only best Investment Option” available for everyone. As you might have noticed (if you have spent some time reading the tables above), that all calculations have been done by estimating the returns net of expenses. We just cannot ignore expenses like those many who just tell you the number of times their property has appreciated in value. It’s not correct.
Hope you found this analysis interesting and useful.
So if you understand the whole premise of asset allocation and also understand the need to have debt in the investment portfolio, then PPF is a great option. (Try thisPPF excel calculator). But ignoring equities just because it can be volatile in short term is not wise.
Equity will go up as well as down. It is in its nature. It’s not a bank FD. But if you stick to it for long, the returns delivered are much higher than debt products.
And that is what I wanted to convince my relative about.
He seems to be convinced now. Whether he takes any action on this new found conviction is another matter.
I also shared with him the idea of investing on a monthly basis viaSIP in equity funds if he (like most people) doesn’t have lumpsum amounts to invest. He got inspired by the severalSIP success storiesthat one can easily find.
So if you too feel that someone needs a little push to consider equity for long term investments, then you can use the examples above to convince them.
Is it better to invest lump sum or
monthly SIP in mutual funds?
A lot of people ask me such questions – whether SIP (Systematic Investment Plan) is better than lump sum investing in mutual funds in India? Or whether lumpsum investing is better than mutual fund SIP?
Why I don’t
like these questions (are SIPs better
than lumpsum investments?) is because as usual, there is no one right
shades of grey and it isn’t exactly an ideal comparison.
to simply compare SIP vs one time investment in mutual funds or just want to find
out which are top mutual funds for SIP in 2019 or best mutual funds for lump
sum investment in 2019 and what not. But there are no perfect answers or ready
lists that predict anything.
look at it from a common-sense perspective.
getting into lump sum vs monthly investment debate, the decision to invest in
lump sum or SIP depends on whether one actually has enough investible surplus
that can be called as lumpsum!
If one doesn’t
even have this ‘lump sum’ then this question of SIP or lump sum in itself is
meaningless. It’s only when this ‘lumpsum’ is actually available that the
question holds any relevance.
the lump sum is there, the next question should be whether investing in one go
is better or whether it’s wiser to spread that lump sum over a short period of
time, as there can be several best ways to invest a large sum of money in
mutual funds. Just because the lump sum is available doesn’t mean that the
money should be invested in one go. There are can various other tactics to
deploy it more efficiently.
But nevertheless, there are those who prefer SIP (and have SIP success stories to tell) and there are those who prefer lump sum investing.
And to be
honest, both methods work in different set of circumstances.
to do this comparison as objectively as possible.
SIP vs Lumpsum in Rising
In a rising
market, your lumpsum investments in mutual funds will produce higher returns
than SIPs. That’s because the cost of purchase in a lumpsum investment in a
rising market would always be lower than the average cost of purchase in SIP, which
is spread out across higher and higher purchase prices for each SIP
Let’s take a
very simple hypothetical example to show this.
Suppose one investor invests Rs 5000 per month in a rising market for 12 months. While the other invests Rs 60,000 as lumpsum at the start itself. Both invest in mutual funds a total of Rs 60,000. Here is how it pans out over the next 12 months:
As can be
seen above, the average cost (average NAV) for the SIP investor in a rising
market is higher. And hence, the future hypothetical profit when sold later,
will be lower for the SIP than that of the lumpsum investor.
look at a falling market scenario.
SIP vs Lumpsum in Falling
falling market, the SIP investing would result in comparatively lower losses
than that in lump sum. And that is because the cost of purchase in a lumpsum
investment in a falling market would always be higher than the average cost of
purchase in SIP.
Here is how
As can be
seen, the average cost for the SIP investor in a falling market is lower. And
hence, the future hypothetical profit when sold later, will be higher for the SIP
investor than it is for the lumpsum investor.
basically what is happening is that if the market grows continuously, then lump
sum investing gives higher returns whereas if it falls continuously, then SIP
investing is better (lesser losses than that of lumpsum investing in such
Ofcourse in practice, the markets neither go up nor go down continuously for very long. So the actual reality may be somewhere in between the two above discussed scenarios of sip vs one time investment in mutual funds.
In some cases, SIP may give better
returns than lumpsum investing. While in other cases, lumpsum will give better
return than SIP investing. And in many other cases, the result of both will be
It all depends on the future sequence of returns that the investor gets. If you want to know how much wealth your SIP will create, try using this SIP maturity value calculator.
But let me
circle back to the original point I made – whether
you invest lumpsum or otherwise first depends on whether you have a lumpsum or
And if you
have, then obviously it would be wiser to just invest lumpsum when the market
is low. Remember Buy-low-sell-high?
is that you will never know when the market is really low. You can be wrong
about your assessment and enter at precisely wrong times.
said, what about our ‘real’ nature and how we behave?
investors are unable to use common sense when their portfolios are down.
few people have the guts to go out and invest more money (assuming they have
more). Fear plays a major role in investing and unfortunately, you can neither back-test
emotions nor fear. And you will only know in hindsight whether is it best time
to invest in mutual funds or not.
investing lumpsum in December 2007 when markets were peaking and then
helplessly witnessing the fall down till March 2009. On the other hand, if you
invested a lump sum in March 2009 instead (at the bottom), you would have been called
the next Warren Buffett!
extreme examples but show how lumpsum investors potentially expose their portfolios
to the vagaries of the market. There is always the risk of being completely
wrong and mistiming. And that is the problem. To be fair, one can also get the
timing right and if willing to spend sleepless nights in the short term, can go
on to make much higher returns than usual in medium to longer term. But that’s
how the dynamics of lumpsum investments are.
Due to their
structural nature, SIPs reduce this risk of being completely wrong as the
investments are spread out. So asking whether is this the right time to invest
in SIP is immaterial as SIP spreads out your investments. Ofcourse your returns
will depend on how the markets play out during the spreading-out period. But
that is how it is.
investors, SIP is also suitable from their cashflow perspective. They rarely have
access to large lumpsum that is ‘surplus enough’ to be available for long term
One can use the SIP investing to slowly build up a large corpus over the years without straining the finances in present or worrying about timing the markets perfectly. You can try to use this sort of yearly SIP calculator to understand how much money you need to save for various financial goals.
I know that
many of you are more focused on saving taxes.
And one popular way to save taxes these days is to go for best tax saving ELSS funds vs PPF. But there also, people tend to get confused whether to go for SIP or lump sum for ELSS when investing in top ELSS mutual funds. Nevertheless, the logic that we have been discussing till now remains the same irrespective of whether it’s an ELSS fund or a normal mutual fund.
Now let’s take
a step further…
What if you
have a lump sum that can be invested. Should you go ahead and invest it in one
go or do something else?
Should you Invest Lump Sum
In One Shot Or Systematically & Gradually?
investor would recognize the market bottoming out and invest in one go. But we
all aren’t smart. So if you aren’t sure if it’s the right time to invest in one
go, you can even deploy your lump sum gradually.
There is no
one single answer to which is the best
method to invest a lump sum in mutual funds?
depending on the market conditions, investor’s investment horizon and risk (and
volatility) appetite, a deployment strategy may have to be worked out. This
strategy may either aim for lowering risk or maximizing returns or a
combination of the two.
One way is
to put lump sum investment in debt mutual fund and gradually deploy the money using
STP or Systematic Transfer Plan into an equity fund.
investor needs would demand different lumpsum deployment strategies.
Being a small investor, it can be daunting to find out which are the best SIP plans that can be considered for long term investments. Or for that matter to find out which are the best mutual funds for lumpsum investment or the best tax saving mutual funds in India or whether to do ELSS SIP or lump sum.
If you don’t know how to find good funds or need help with planning your investments, do get in touch with a capable advisor to help you. It is worth it.
I am sorry
if you did not find the one specific answer to your question of SIP
or Lumpsum which is better for investing.
comparison between SIP and lumpsum investing is neither fair nor accurately
possible. And unless we know everything about the investor in question, one
cannot say confidently which is better suited for whom.
You may feel that there is a secret to find the best time to invest in mutual funds India but there is no secret. Different investors need to follow different investment strategies for SIP and lump sum investing. And ofcourse an awareness of market conditions and how market history plays out is absolutely necessary. You can’t be blind to that.
and done, SIP is a comparatively safer option but we cannot deny that at times,
lump sum investing will provide better returns if done correctly.
Which is better SIP or lump sum investment in top best mutual funds in 2019?
sound repetitive but the truth is the superiority of SIP over lump sum or of
lumpsum investments over SIP varies under different conditions.
Is SIP better
than one time investment? Or lump sum is better than SIP? Systematic Investment
Plan vs Lump sum Investment? It is all a matter of probability and what is the sequence
of returns that comes in future and how investor behaves during the period in
consideration. That’s all there is to it.
This is a common question that I am asked quite often, more
so during the tax saving season.
Choosing between the ever so popular Public Provident Fund (PPF) and Equity-linked Saving Schemes (ELSS).
To be fair, comparing one to the other isn’t exactly
correct. But I will get to that in a bit.
If you think about it, the main motive behind such PPF vs ELSS questions is fairly obvious – the more tax you pay, the less money remains in your hands. So you will naturally try to find ways to save more taxes. And if these tax saving efforts can help you earn good returns, then nothing like it. Isn’t it?
Unfortunately, people want a clear-cut, crisp,
one-word answer to such ELSS vs PPF questions.
But that’s easier said than done. Things aren’t
always black and white. There are hundreds of shades of greys in between.
Another question derived from the earlier one is whether doing SIP in ELSS funds is better
than investing in PPF every month?
Those who are risk averse obviously feel PPF is a better savings option. While those who have got good returns from ELSS funds in the past (or know that equity is the best asset to create long-term wealth) advocate going for SIP in ELSS funds.
And here is an interesting fact: the number of such PPF vs tax saving ELSS debates
rises during the tax saving season. JPeople are in a mad rush to do some glamorous,
last-minute tax savings and portray themselves as financial superheroes!
But last-minute tax saving efforts near the end of the
financial year is a recipe for disaster.
But let’s not digress and instead focus on the main questions
Is ELSS mutual fund better tax-saving investment option than PPF (Public Provident Fund)? Or
Is PPF better tax-saving option than ELSS funds (Equity Linked Saving Schemes)?
No doubt both are very popular.
And when you ask people about the best tax saving
investment options, chances are high that you will get either ELSS or PPF as
But as I said earlier, there is no perfect or one clearly
defined right or wrong answer to this debate.
Ofcourse if you pick just one of the several parameters,
you are bound to find one clear winner. But that is not the right approach.
But let’s begin the comparison anyway…
Most people prefer to compare returns.
Unfortunately, that is neither wise nor a fair
as a product is extremely safe and gives assured returns whereas returns
from ELSS depend on the performance of the stock markets. So the returns of
ELSS can be very high or very low and fluctuate somewhere in between.
Both are completely different products and target
different needs of a portfolio. So we shouldn’t even be comparing them!
But people do and will continue to compare.
And one very big reason why people compare them is that both have a good and instant side-effect of providing tax-saving… that too under the same Section 80C of the Income Tax Act. Hence people tend to compare.
I know what you are thinking.
Firstly, we are concerned about tax-saving. Right? That’s
common between ELSS and PPF. So nothing much to compare.
Next obvious choice is to compare returns. What else
could it have been?
Your goals and investment horizon play a major role
in defining how you invest. If investing for long-term goals, the investment
portfolio should ideally have a larger equity component. Whereas when saving
for short-term goals, it should be a less volatile and debt-heavy portfolio. The
asset allocation differs for different financial goals. That’s how it should
I will not delve into the full details of what PPF
is or what tax-saving ELSS funds are. I am sure you already know most things
about them. But just to recap a bit:
PPF (or Public Provident Fund) is a government-backed debt product that assures returns that are declared from time to time. How much to invest in PPF to save tax? A maximum of Rs 1.5 lakh can be invested in lump sum or installments in one financial year. The lock-in period is 15 years and the account can be extended in blocks of 5 years multiple times after the original 15-year maturity period is over. Tax benefits for investment in PPF under Section 80C are limited to upto Rs 1.5 lakh.
ELSS (or Equity Linked Savings Scheme) is a diversified mutual fund that invests in stocks and also offers benefits under Section 80C. There is no limit on maximum investment but tax benefit is available only on Rs 1.5 lakh. The lock-in period is 3 years. Returns are neither guaranteed nor assured. They are market linked and (average returns) tend to beat inflation in the long term.
Comparison of Returns – ELSS vs PPF
As I have already said, comparing returns of PPF
with ELSS isn’t 100% correct.
Both have very different investment objectives.
PPF is a debt product whose returns are fixed but
limited due to its very nature. There is no potential for positive or negative
surprises. You get what you are promised by the authorities. ELSS, on the other
hand, is an equity product that aims to maximize returns. To achieve this aim,
it takes risks which can turn out well at times and not turn out well at other
To give you some idea about how returns in ELSS
funds and PPF differ every year, I have tabulated the annual returns of some of
the popular tax-saving ELSS mutual funds in the table below:
The data has been sourced from Value Research. This is not a perfect comparison but is still good
enough to give you a comparative snapshot. You can compare the year-wise
returns and average category-return of these ELSS funds with PPF annual
interest rates. This table will give you some idea about how the returns vary
in reality, so I suggest you spend some time on it.
And the funds above are one of the best ELSS funds
that have been in existence for last several years now. But do not think of
this as an advice of best-ELSS-funds-to-invest kind of list. The data is just
for illustration purposes.
But nevertheless, read the observations below:
PPF returns have mostly ranged from 8.0% to 8.7% in the recent past. To know more about PPF account interest rate in different banks, check the updated latest PPF interest rates.
The years with green colored PPF-return grids indicate that the PPF was the better performing when compared with other ELSS funds in that year. Like in 2008, PPF delivered 8% whereas the chosen set of ELSS funds gave average returns of -54% with individual funds delivering anything between -48% to -63%. Similarly in 2011, PPF did better than ELSS schemes.
The years with red PPF return grids show that ELSS gave higher returns than PPF in those years. For example: in 2017, ELSS returns ranged from 26% to 46%. Obviously PPF couldn’t match that with its 8%.
The smaller grids (max/min) show the maximum and minimum annual return for different ELSS funds for that given year.
It’s clear from above that depending on the market conditions,
the ELSS returns can have wild fluctuations. PPF returns on the other hand are
more or less constant due to government’s blessings.
So where PPF returns average around 8%, tax saving
ELSS mutual funds have the potential to deliver a much superior return – a 12%
to 15% average returns is possible, but not guaranteed. And the top best ELSS
funds have given much better returns than these average returns.
So does it mean that you should simply dump PPF and
start investing everything in ELSS funds?
Ofcourse not! The average return comparison of ELSS and PPF does seem to show that ELSS offers superior returns in the long run. But basing your investment decisions only on one factor is very risky. Here’s why.
Let’s check another aspect before we get judgmental.
I have simulated Rs 10,000 monthly investment in Franklin India Tax Shield Fund* starting
from January 2008 to December 2018. This is to be compared with Rs 10,000 per
month savings in PPF for the same period.
from several ELSS funds. Don’t consider it as a recommendation.
The value of investment in Franklin’s ELSS fund at the end of 2018 would be about Rs 29-30
lakhs. On the other hand, the value of PPF corpus is 20-21 lakh.
Once again and maybe not surprisingly, it seems ELSS
is the way to go.
You can also say that in the above case, the
PPF-investor has actually lost out on more than 50% extra returns. (Rs 30 lakh
– Rs 20 lakh)
I have compared Rs 10,000 monthly SIP in Franklin Tax Shield vs monthly 10,000
savings in PPF starting from April 2007 (when the bull run was about to peak in
I chose that starting point because due to high
returns from equity in recent past (2004-early-2007), many people would be
attracted to stock markets and would be interested in ELSS – as it combined tax
savings with much higher returns than PPF.
So here is a 2-year story – starting from April 2007
to March 2009:
In 2 years, the total contribution would have been
Rs 2.4 lac in each.
And the value of ELSS investment would be Rs 1.6 lac
and that of PPF would have been about Rs 2.6 lac (yellow cells in the bottom
We know equity will do well in long term. That is
what has been told and proven countless times
But how many people would remain convinced and loyal
to that idea when their Rs 2.4 lakh investment goes down to Rs 1.6 lakh after 2
They might be cursing themselves for ignoring PPF
that would have saved them from such losses.
And this is what I wanted to highlight.
And no PPF vs ELSS calculator or SIP vs PPF
calculator will tell you this. All such ELSS SIP investment calculators work on
the principle of average returns which will not show the real picture.
Just looking at historical average returns, you might feel that investing 100% of the money in stock markets is the right way. But when markets correct, not many people have the ability to stay invested and accept the temporary losses, even though it is best for them.
Looking at the average long-term returns in
isolation can give the wrong picture. Equity investing (directly or via mutual
funds) does need a lot of will power to remain invested when markets are down.
Not many people have it.
So is it better to
invest in ELSS mutual funds SIP than in PPF?
It is true that
investors of ELSS mutual funds are rewarded for accepting the short-term
volatility. They are paid back handsomely as average return table above suggests.
But when you invest in markets, you will face periods of stock market
volatility every now and then. Like in 2008, the ELSS category fell by almost
50%. Again in 2011, the category average was about -24%.
Equity is perfectly fine for long-term investors and
equity funds have given much better returns than PPF over long-term. But you
just cannot ignore debt (like PPF) as the investors have different responses to
volatility. Some might exit ELSS after 20-30% losses (which is normal in
Another factor is that you don’t have to ‘choose’
anything in PPF. It’s simple.
But in ELSS funds, you have to choose the fund among
many available ones. Is there any guarantee that you will be able to choose the
right ELSS fund that will do well in future? Think about it. What if you picked
the wrong funds?
That was about the
comparison of investment returns of PPF vs ELSS mutual funds.
Let’s see other
Tax Benefits on investments in ELSS Vs PPF
Both ELSS and PPF
are quite tax efficient.
Under the Income Tax
Act Section 80C, investment in ELSS mutual funds and PPF (Public Provident
Fund) give you a full tax deduction upto Rs 1.5 lakh every financial year.
Under Section 80C, you cannot claim deduction of more than Rs 1.5 lac when investing in ELSS or/and PPF and/or other section-80 tax saving options.
Also, you cannot
invest more than Rs 1.5 lakh in a PPF account in a year. But this restriction is
not there in ELSS schemes. You can invest as much as you want, but the tax
benefits available will be limited to Rs 1.5 lakh.
And let me answer
two more questions that you might have:
A PPF account has a
maturity period (lock-in) of 15 years. ELSS funds on the other hand have a lock
in period of only 3 years. But wait. There is more to know than just that…
Assuming you make
annual investments in PPF, only your first installment in locked-in for 15
years. The 2nd year installment is locked-in for 14 years. The 3rd year
installment is locked-in for 13 years…and so on. Also, the PPF accounts that
have completed 15-year lock-in and have been extended have a fresh lock-in of
In ELSS, each SIP
installment has its own 3-year lock-in. many people get confused here. Do not
think that lock in is valid on full amount that you have invested from the date
of first investment in ELSS.
So first SIP in
April 2017 will be locked in till April 2020. Second SIP in May 2017 will be
locked-in till May 2020. And so on…
But let me remind
you that equity is best suited for long-term. Like for periods exceeding 5
years. The money is locked for only 3 years in an ELSS fund. But even if the
lock-in gets over after 3 years, you shouldn’t withdraw the funds and remain
invested for as long as you don’t need the money.
As investors you need to be very clear that the asset that you are investing in is equity and thus you should be ready to stay invested for at least 5 to 7 years to get good returns.
What if you Invest 100% in PPF or 100% in ELSS?
These type of questions come from people who are unwilling to see the
bigger picture and are only narrowly focusing and asking about PPF vs mutual
funds which is better?
Regular SIP in equity funds (both ELSS and non-ELSS) can create a lot of wealth in long run. Here is a good real-life success story of SIP-based Wealth Creation. To know how much wealth you can possibly create by investing small amounts every month, check out the following links:
And if you think
like that, then you will easily get answers to questions like ‘how much should I invest in ELSS’ and ‘how much should I invest in PPF’?
But you don’t need
to decide between PPF and ELSS because of just returns.
You instead simply need
to focus on asset allocation (which is 70-30 in the above example). Therefore,
the choice between doing SIP in ELSS funds and investing in PPF must also be
seen in the context of overall portfolio asset allocation.
If there is room
under the 30% debt bucket after deducting EPF contributions, you use PPF. For
equity’s 70% bucket, you can use ELSS to the extent it is needed for tax
But that doesn’t mean that you don’t invest for your goals. Tax-saving
is not a financial goal. Just remember that.
The approach that I discussed above is in line with goal-based
One simpler approach can be to take a middle path and do a 50-50 split
between PPF and ELSS.
Another can be (for those who are interested in being more tactical
about tax-saving) to use market valuations as an indicator to decide where to
invest. If valuations are low, invest in ELSS. If valuations are very high,
invest in PPF.
I am not suggesting that the tactical approach discussed above is a better way. Just highlighting that there can be multiple approaches. But most people are better off not trying to time the markets. 🙂
But the actual split between ELSS and PPF will depend on factors like
your risk profile, existing assets, etc.
Just to reiterate, if you are young, keep a larger portion of your savings directed towards equity when investing for long term goals like retirement.
Both ELSS and PPF are suitable for retirement savings. But equity is
better suited as long as you have several years left for the goal.
How to choose good Tax-Saving ELSS Mutual Funds?
Before even you consider ELSS as the choice for tax saving, do not
forget that always invest in ELSS with a long-term perspective – something like
5+ years or even more.
Because ELSS is about equity investing. And equity as an asset class
isn’t risk free. There is always a risk of loss of capital. But this risk is
higher when you invest for short term. The longer your investment horizon, the
lower is the risk of loss.
With that aside, how do we go about picking the best ELSS funds among
all ELSS mutual fund schemes out there?
These days, the disclaimers about past performance not being
necessarily sustained in the future fall on deaf ears.
So despite mutual fund companies highlighting great short term returns,
you should focus on things that matter.
When looking for which ELSS funds to invest in for tax saving, keep the
below discussed points in mind.
Depending solely on performance numbers from recent past can be misleading. Do not run after previous year’s best performing tax saving ELSS funds. Look for consistency in returns over several years. Has the fund been in the top quartile of its category for almost all the years? Has the fund protected the fall in poor markets? These are just some of the questions that should come to your mind when picking ELSS or building a proper mutual fund portfolio. You can even consult an investment advisor to find out these answers.
Also, all ELSS funds are not the same in terms of portfolio
All ELSS funds are actively managed and its fund manager’s job to
decide what to hold in fund’s portfolio. It can a portfolio with a bias towards
large cap, midcaps, all caps or whatever.
What is worth remembering is that one ELSS fund’s investment mandate
will not be the same as that of the ELSSs out there.
And there is absolutely no need to pick a new ELSS fund every year for your
This often happens when you do last minute tax saving. You are in a hurry and want to find out the best performing ELSS fund on the basis of 1-year return. This is not advisable.
Over the years, investors end up with several ELSS schemes as they
invest lump sums every year by picking one from the best performer of previous
years. Like picking from Top ELSS Funds of 2018 or Top ELSS Funds of 2019.
But having more than 1 or 2 ELSS funds is useless. In any case, if you have other non-tax saving diversified mutual funds, having more ELSS funds will only lead to an overlap in your portfolio. Building a mutual fund portfolio isn’t tough but still people mess it up.
So don’t wait for January, February or March for planning your tax
Do some homework earlier and find out how much is to be invested in ELSS in the year. And then begin investing in ELSS through SIP (systematic investment plans). This way, you would have time to pick good ELSS funds on the basis of long-term consistent performance. You will also benefit from averaging (and avoid timing the market through last minute lump sum investments).
We began this article with the question of whether to invest in PPF
or ELSS to save taxes.
You should not decide randomly between ELSS or PPF. And there is no
one-size-fits-all answer as both ELSS and PPF target different needs of the
The decision should be made after you have a clear view of your financial
goals and tax requirement.
But when it comes to combining equity investing with tax saving, there
is no doubt that ELSS is good for long term investments. It scores well
above several other tax saving products. And investing in ELSS through SIP (or
systematic investment plans) over a long time horizon can help you do proper
tax planning and financial goal planning.
If you have a well-thought out investment plan for your financial goals, you will not need to ask questions like which is a better investment option ELSS or PPF?
You don’t need to choose between the most suitable tax saver between ELSS vs PPF. That is because you will invest on basis of your goal-specific strategic allocation rather than randomly. And that is what goes a long way in sensible investment management and wealth creation. So taking sides on ELSS vs PPF is fine. But invest smartly and using correct goal-based approach.
Budget 2019 initially proposed something that excited millions of Indians – No income tax on Rs 5 lakh income.
It seemed that the zero percent (0%) income tax slab was indeed increased to Rs 5 lakh in India.
But when actual details emerged, the reality was a little different.
If you still aren’t sure about this whole zero tax 5 lakh thing or are looking for answers, then this article might help.
What really happened is something like this:
Individuals with taxable income of up to Rs 5 lakh will get full tax rebate under section 87A. What this means is that if your net taxable income is up to Rs 5 lakh, then you don’t need to pay any taxes. However, if the net taxable income is above Rs 5 lakh, then the rebate under Section 87A cannot be availed.
But, there are no tax slab changes in the Budget 2019.
The only thing that has changed is the tax rebate under Section 87A – which has been revised; and it’s because of that alone, that there will be no tax liability for those whose taxable income is less than or equal to Rs 5 lakh (Rs 5,00,000) in India.
If this sounds a little confusing, then let’s go step-by-step and it
will be crystal clear to you by the end.
Income Tax Slabs FY 2019-20 (AY 2020-21)
As I said, there hasn’t been any revision in the income tax slabs from the previous year. It remains the same the for Financial Year 2019-20 as follows (for individuals below 60):
This simply means that, currently:
Taxable income up to Rs 2.5 lakh has zero (nil) tax.
Taxable income between Rs 2,50,001 to Rs 5,00,000 taxed at 5%
Taxable income between Rs 5,00,001 to Rs 10,00,000 taxed at 20%
Taxable income above Rs 10,00,000 taxed at 30%
In addition to the above, following are also applicable: 10% surcharge on income tax if Rs 50 lakh < income < Rs 1 crore and 15% surcharge on if the total income > Rs 1 crore.
4% Health & Education cess on income tax (including surcharge) to be added.
Remember, we are talking about the ‘Taxable Income’ here and not ther ‘Gross or Total Income’. The ‘net taxable income’ is the total income reduced by the amounts of permissible deductions under various sections (like Section 80C, etc.).
I know you might be thinking – if the tax exemption limit is still Rs 2.5 lakh, then how can there be zero tax on income of up to Rs 5 lakh?
Your curiousity is correct.
And the reason is hidden in the changes made in the Section 87A during the Budget 2019.
Revised Tax Rebate – Section 87A
What has happened is that the limits specified earlier in Section 87A
have been revised. The changes are as follows:
Earlier: If the taxable income is less than Rs 3.5 lakh, then a rebate of Rs 2500 applies to the total
tax payable (before cess). And if the tax payable is less than Rs 2500 then the
entire tax amount is discounted.
Now (after Budget 2019): If the taxable income is less than Rs 5 lakh, then a rebate of Rs 12,500 applies to the total tax
payable (before cess). And if the tax payable is less than Rs 12,500 then the
entire tax amount is discounted.
So the earlier limit of Rs 3.5 lakh has been revised upwards to Rs 5
lakh. And the rebate available has been increased from Rs 2500 to Rs 12,500.
Remember, that a rebate is the specified amount of tax that the taxpayer is not
liable to pay.
Here is simple example to show the working
How Income Tax is Zero (nil) on Rs 5 lakh income?
Suppose, your net taxable income is Rs 5 lakh.
As per the tax slabs, calculated normal tax liability is as follows:
0 to Rs 2.5 lakh –
0% – Nil
Rs 2.5 lakh to Rs 5.0 lakh – 5% of Rs 2.5 lakh – Rs 12,500
(ignoring cess, etc. for simplicity)
So the total tax = 0 + Rs 12,500 = Rs 12,500
But, the revised Section 87A limits offer a rebate of Rs 12,500 for
taxable income of up to Rs 5 lakh.
Tax of Rs 12,500 – Rebate of Rs 12,500 = Zero Tax.
That is, if the net taxable income is Rs 5 lakh or less, then the entire tax liability will be less than the rebate of Rs 12,500 – which means effectively no (zero) tax on income up to Rs 5 lakh.
So you can say that the so called zero tax is applicable only for those whose taxable income is Rs 5 lakhs or less.
But what happens in case taxable income is
more than Rs 5 lakh?
Income Tax on income above Rs 5 lakh
If you wish to calculate income tax on your net taxable income above Rs 5 lakh, then let’s take an example to understand it.
It makes sense to repeat that the rebate is available only if taxable income is Rs 5 lakh or less. Not if it’s above it.
Had you by some means been able to further
reduce your taxable income to less than Rs 5 lakh (in above example of Rs 7
lakh total income), you would have become eligible for the rebate of Rs 12,500.
So that’s it…
There has been no change in income slab or tax
rates in Budget 2019. Only the limits in the Section 87A have been revised to
benefit those whose taxable income is less than Rs 5 lakh.
Individuals with taxable income of up to Rs 5 lakh will get the full tax rebate under section 87A. This effectively means that they will not be required to pay any taxes. However, for those whose net taxable income is above Rs 5 lakh, there is not tax rebate that they can avail.
I hope this article clarifies your doubts about how income of Rs 5 lakh is tax free and what is the zero percent (0%) income tax slab in India.
Rs 1 crore is still not a small amount. But whether it is sufficient or not depends on why you actually need it.
So for example, if you were to ask me whether Rs 1 crore is enough for retirement? In most cases, the answer would be a No. Retirement planning is a nasty problem and you can’t just ahead with random numbers for your retirement corpus.
But still, there is a psychological attraction to this figure of Rs 1 crore and becoming a crorepati that us Indians can relate to.
PPF is a beautiful debt product. I have already written about it earlier too (link).
And even though investing in equity is a necessity and highly advisable for the long term, a product like the PPF can still be a part of the overall portfolio. And I am sure the term PPF crorepati in the title would have already captured your interest by now. 🙂
However, PPF is not a short term investment option as it has a lock-in period of 15 years. But still, you can make partial withdrawal after few years. And You can even extend the maturity by a block of 5 years for multiple times. It currently falls under the ‘EEE’ category, which means that PPF contribution, interest earned on PPF and PPF maturity proceeds are exempted from tax.
Interestingly, a few days back I got a mail from a self-confessed conservative investor.
He said that he was slowly increasing his equity investments. But still he felt that he cannot part ways with something as sure-shot and as risk-free as a PPF account. And he wanted to know how long would it take to accumulate Rs 1 crore in PPF?
I felt that this question might interest others as well.
So this post is about finding out:
How to accumulate Rs 1 Crore in PPF (Public Provident Fund)?
And if you are low-risk conservative investor who wishes to accumulate Rs 1 Crore, then PPF is a decent option.
Let me try to answer this from various perspectives:
If you contribute Rs 1.5 lac every year for a period of 15 years, your PPF balance will be about Rs 43.9 lac at the end of 15 years (assuming a stable interest rate of 8.0% per annum).
If you contribute Rs 1.5 lac every year for a period of 15 years and then don’t liquidate your holding for another 15 years, then your PPF balance will be about Rs 1.39 crore at the end of 30 years (assuming a stable interest rate of 8.0% per annum). You will achieve the target of Rs 1 crore around the 27th year.
If you contribute Rs 1.5 lac every year for a period of 15+5+5+5=30 years, then your PPF balance will be about Rs 1.83 crore at the end of 30 years (assuming a stable PPF interest rate of 8.0% per annum). And you will reach Rs 1 crore during the 24th year itself.
But what if you are unable to invest Rs 1.5 lac every year (the full PPF annual limit), then obviously your target of reaching Rs 1 crore in PPF will be delayed accordingly.
Also, if the interest rates go down in years to come, then once again your target of reaching Rs 1 crore in PPF will be delayed to that extent.
So to sum it up, you can become a crorepati if you put Rs 1.5 lac every year in PPF then you can accumulate a corpus of Rs 1.08 crore by the end of the 24th year (assuming that 8% return)
But as you know, neither the PPF limit remains same nor PPF interest rates remain unchanged over the long term.
So let’s try a hypothetical scenario which might actually play out in the near future:
Suppose you begin saving full Rs 1.5 lac in PPF today. Government increases the annual PPF investment limit by Rs 50,000 every 5 years. It is assumed you will continue to invest as much as is needed to fully utilize the annual investment limit of PPF every year. The interest rates also reduce by an average 0.5% every 3 years or so.
What will be the result then?
At the end of 15th year, your total investment of Rs 30 lac would have become about Rs 49.4 lac.
If you continue investing (after extending your PPF account with contribution) for another 5+5+5=15 years, then at the end of 30th year, your total investment of Rs 82.5 lac would have become about Rs 2.02 crore.
Here is the tabular depiction of the excel:
As you might have observed by you, it is only after the initial few years that the actual compounding of the PPF investments becomes visible. And it is for this very reason that you should try not to disturb (withdraw from) your PPF account for as long as possible and try to extend its tenure after the first 15 years lock-in period.
Do you want to try some different scenarios of your own?
You can do so.
You can download this FREE Excel PPF Calculator and play around with inputs. If the previous link doesn’t work, use the link below:
Now, the current limit for PPF is Rs 1.5 lakh per year.
But what if you want to invest more?
Obviously, you need to respect the limit.
But if both husband and wife can contribute to PPF, then things can get fastened a bit.
Save Rs 1 crore Quickly using Husband PPF + Wife PPF
What needs to be done is that a PPF account needs to be opened for both you and your spouse.
Since both the husband and the wife can deposit Rs 1.5 lakh per annum, it means you can contribute Rs 3 lakh every year in PPF. And you will get interest in both these PPF accounts for the entire period of 15 years or more if extended.
So how much do you end up with if both you and spouse contribute Rs 1.5 lakh every year for 15 years?
The answer is Rs 43.9 lakh each, i.e. a total of Rs 87.8 lakh.
So if both of you save diligently, you can achieve Rs 1 Crore in about 17 years. Here is a sample depiction of PPF Husband Wife calculation:
So if you are a conservative investor, who isn’t much interested in volatile investment options, then PPF can be helpful. PPF can help you become a crorepati in a safe way.
If you put Rs 1.5 lakh every year in PPF, then you can accumulate a corpus of Rs 1 crore by the end of the 24th year.
If both you and your spouse put Rs 1.5 lakh each every year in individual PPFs, then you both accumulate a corpus of Rs 1 crore by the 17th year itself.
And if somehow you manage to continue investing for the 30 years (i.e. 15 years original and 3 extensions of 5 years each), then you will be able to accumulate a really big corpus.
So before I close, let me list down some facts about the PPF for your ready reference:
Extension of PPF Account – After the maturity period of the original 15 years, it can be extended in blocks of 5 years each multiple times
Minimum deposit amount (per year): Rs 500
Maximum deposit amount (per year) : Rs 1,50,000
Number of installments every year: 1 (min) to 12 (max)
Number of accounts an individual can open: Only 1. If there is a 2nd PPF account, it is treated as invalid and doesn’t earn any interest.
Tax Savings – EEE status, i.e. the annual contribution (up to Rs 1.5 lakh) provides tax benefit under Section 80C. Interest earned and the maturity amount is fully exempted from taxes.
Interest on PPF is calculated on the minimum balance in the account between 5th and the last day of each month. So if you invest monthly, then it makes sense to do it before 5th every month.
You can further maximize your returns in PPF by investing the full amount at the beginning of the financial year itself. Ofcourse this is not easy for everyone. But if you do so, the full amount earns interest every month of the year.
Here is the link to download the free excel-based PPF Calculator again:
Investing in equity does come with its own share of ups and downs in the near term. But if you look at the average annual returns of Indian Stock Market, then it will show how you can create some serious wealth from equity. The idea of this post was to tell how a comparatively safe and risk-free savings option like PPF can be used to accumulate a large corpus of PPF Rs 1 crore.
For most people, its advisable to have a balance between equity and debt when investing for long.
But if you aren’t sure whether you are saving and investing properly, do get in touch with an investment advisor soon (how?).
Majorly, these variations give the policyholder different options to decide how the total sum assured is paid out to the nominee in case of policyholder’s death.
But think about it…
Why would you anyone even think about the other versions of the simple term plan?
It will become clear as I explain it in the next sections.
You will realize that just buying a Rs 1 crore term plan or some other plan is not enough. You really need to think hard about how the money will be handled after you and accordingly, choose the right version of the term plan.
So let’s move on…
Types of Term Insurance Policies in India
Let’s see how these term plan varieties differ from each other.
1 – Term Plan with Lumpsum Payout
This is the most basic version.
Let’s say you buy a term plan of Rs 1 crore. In case you die during the policy tenure, your nominee will be paid the full amount of Rs 1 crore in one go. Nothing more, nothing less.
There is nothing much to explain about this option.
In this plan, there is no lumpsum payout. Instead, the sum assured is utilized to provide a regular monthly income to the nominee for a fixed number of years.
For example – You take Rs 1 Crore term plan. Now if you die within the policy tenure, then the sum assured is paid out as a monthly income of Rs 83,333 for next 10 years (i.e. Rs 83,333 x 12 x 10 = Rs 1 Cr).
This monthly income can either be fixed (as above) or can also be increasing one.
3 – Term Plan with Lumpsum + Fixed Monthly Payout
In this plan, a percentage of the sum assured is paid out at the time of death. The remaining amount is paid as a monthly income, which is a fixed percentage of the remaining sum assured for a fixed number of years.
For example – You take Rs 1 Crore term plan. Now if you die within the policy tenure, a percentage of the sum assured let’s say 40% (i.e. Rs 40 lac) is paid out immediately. The remaining 60% (or Rs 60 lac) is paid out as monthly income of Rs 50,000 for next 10 years (i.e. Rs 50,000 x 12 x 10).
4 – Term Plan with Lumpsum + Increasing Monthly Payout
In this plan, a percentage of the sum assured is paid out at the time of death. The remaining amount is paid as a monthly income, which increases at a pre-determined percentage on a simple interest basis on every policy/death anniversary for a fixed number of years.
For example – You take Rs 1 crore term plan. Now if you die within the policy tenure, a percentage of the sum assured let’s say 40% (i.e. Rs 40 lac) is paid out immediately. The remaining is paid out as a starting monthly income of Rs 50,000 which increases by let’s say 10% every year. So next year, the monthly payout will be Rs 55,000 and so on. Generally, the total payout in this version is more than the original sum assured.
In both the above options (lumpsum + fixed monthly payout and lumpsum + increasing monthly payout), the lumpsum % can be different as per insurer’s or policyholder’s choice. There are many plans that even pay 100% of the sum assured upfront and additionally pay a monthly income (fixed or increasing) to the nominee.
For example – You take Rs 1 crore term plan. Now if you die within the policy tenure, full Rs 1 crore is paid out to the nominee immediately. In addition, a monthly payout of Rs 50,000 is made for the next 10 years. The total payout in this version is more than the original sum assured. To be exact, it is Rs 1 crore + Rs 60 lac (Rs 50,000 x 12 x 10).
These are the major versions of the term plans that are available these days.
Now let me address the point that I raised earlier – Why would anyone even think about the other versions of the simple term plan where the payout is staggered?
Quite often, the nominees lack proper personal financial knowledge when it comes to handling large sums of money. So once they receive a large amount, they may be unable to properly manage the sudden increase in wealth and end up losing it by listening to the wrong people.
So in order to overcome this concern, many insurance companies came up with various other payout options.
This way, the nominees receive a part of the amount as lumpsum to take care of immediate concerns (like closing all loans, other big expenses in the near term). The remaining amount is paid as monthly payments over a pre-decided number of years, to replicate the regular income pattern and help smoothen the life of the nominees.
That is the major reason for the launch of these different versions.
So depending on the ability of your nominees to handle money, you should pick the adequate option:
If you are sure your nominee is well-versed in personal finance, then you can go for the full lumpsum payout term plan.
If you feel the nominee is better off not having a large amount suddenly (due to any reason you think), then you can go for the staggered-payout term plans.
If you feel that if your sudden death will result in financial chaos (due to outstanding loan or planned big expenses in the near term), then you can take the term plan that pays a % as lumpsum and remaining as monthly income (if you feel the nominee will be unable to handle money properly).
As you might be feeling right now, there are cases where opting for the staggered payout option actually makes sense.
Ofcourse from a purely financial perspective, it’s best to take the lumpsum and invest it efficiently and try to generate income from it for the nominees. But all decisions cannot be taken just from mathematical perspectives.
Do premiums vary for different Term Plans?
Yes of course.
Different versions of the term plan have different premiums.
To give you an idea, here is a snapshot of the various versions, with their benefits and approximate annual premiums for a 30-year old, non-smoking male living in a metro city and buying a 30-year term plan:
The first one is the normal term plan that you know of – pays lumpsum amount (equal to the sum assured at the death of policyholder). Others are different plans paying different monthly incomes which is either fixed or increasing each year.
The actual premium that you will have to pay will depend on a variety of factors. If you take a policy for a longer tenure, then it will cost more. In general, shorter the policy term, lower will be the premiums. To choose the right policy term, do read what should be the ideal term insurance policy term?
And I almost forgot telling you about another variety of Term Plans that has been pitched by a lot of agents in recent times – Return of Premium Term Plan.
Is Return of Premium Term Plan Good?
A lot of people who wish to buy term plans have this feeling that since they will survive the policy period, the premium which they are paying will be wasted.
For these people, insurance companies have come up with a term plan where the premium paid over the course of policy tenure is returned back if the person survives.
At the face of it, this seems like a good idea. And this policy did address the concerns of people who thought that the term plans are a waste of money.
But if you deep dive a bit, things aren’t that great. Such policies have premiums much higher than the normal term plans.
If we were to compare a plain term plan (that only pays lumpsum amount) with a term plan (that also only pays lumpsum) with the return of premium option, then the premiums are Rs 9717 for a plain term plan and Rs 24,968 for return-of-premium term plan.
These premiums are for a 30-year old, non-smoking male buying a 30-year term plan living in a metro city.
Let’s compare these two plans a bit more.
The total premium paid is Rs 2.91 lac for plain term plan (Rs 9717 annually x 30 years) and Rs 7.49 lac for return-of-premium term plan (Rs 24,968 annually x 30 years).
In case of death during policy tenure, the nominee gets Rs 1 crore in both cases (as the sum assured is same).
But in case of survival, things change.
In case of plain term plan, you get back nothing – that is, you don’t get back Rs 2.91 lac. On the other hand in case of Return-of-Premium Term Plan, you get back your Rs 7.49 lac.
You may again feel that the return of premium plan is better. But remember that you are paying a high premium for that.
The difference between the annual premium of the two plans is a little more than Rs 15,000 (= Rs 24,968 – Rs 9717).
If you invest this difference amount of Rs 15,000 every year at just 8%, then at the end of 30 years you will have about Rs 18-19 lac. Compare this with the amount the return-of-premium offers you at the end, i.e. Rs 7.49 lac.
So the obvious conclusion is that it’s better to not purchase a return of premium term plan. You are better off with either a simple term plan (or some of its variants that offer monthly income).
But since term plans also come in various shapes in sizes, its natural to ask which is the best term insurance plan for you?
As mentioned earlier, the choice of the term plan variety is dependent a lot on how capable do you feel your nominees are in managing money. If they are financially aware, going for a lumpsum payout is best. If they aren’t and you want to provide them with a regular income for a few years after you die, then take the lumpsum + monthly income payout option. Or you can have the best of both worlds by taking two policies combining the two approaches.